Sunday, September 30, 2012
Sunday, September 23, 2012
I made the heel with a sharp ridge, and tried an inverse volute at the headstock end. The mahogany wasn't very forgiving, I had to use a very sharp chisel in order to avoid any splintering.
In the pic it almost looks as the profile is V-shaped, but it's C-shaped as usual.
Friday, September 21, 2012
The second pic shows how two of the rods protrude on the underside. I do like this: first I mark all the spots, then I drill right through the fretboard. Then I place it on the neck, and carefully check that everything lines up. I hold it in place and drill through the holes at third and tenth fret so I get corresponding holes in the neck.
The rod is glued in the holes, and cut off to make markers. And, of course, two of them are left protruding.
This is the second time I do this, fretting is a wee bit more complicated due to the rods, but glueing the finished board is a breeze. No more slipping around, and no miniscule brads in fret slots or something like that.
Upplagd av Sven Nyström kl. 5:08 PM
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
But that's alright, it's always like that. I just knock the grain back with some 500 grit sanding pads and I know the following layers will be so much easier.
It does look half good already. Innit.
Thursday, September 13, 2012
And a good thing that was - the coverplates I ended up buying was lower than the ones I paid for but never got. So the buckle above the bridge was too close to the bridge. Or saddle or whatevva.
I thought of scrapping it and then forget all about resos. But tried mounting the plate on small blocks, about 2 mm high. And now it works. It makes noise. And the secret inlay under the usb stick is fab.
So I need to invent a permanent fix, maybe blocks, maybe washers, maybe a solid ring.
And then finish it.
Monday, September 10, 2012
What do you do when you run out of fretboards, and you won't see your big bandsaw for a couple of weeks? Well I decided to try a method that I saw in an instructional vid on the web, where a few guys sliced wood for veneers with a handsaw.
I had a nice chunk of rosewood and started out by planing the sides so they were parallel and square to each other.
Then you saw from the corners, all four. And it's now that the scored line helps - the saw follows the line and is guided by it. I've tried similar cuts without scoring and that's very much harder. As you can see I used a Japanese pull saw. One of the edges is for ripping. It works but I really want a rip saw from Lee Valley. I haven't bought it yet because of a negative cash flow but I yearn for it.
Anyway, the cuts eventually meet and then it's just the diamond shaped bit in the middle to saw through. And the first fretboard from this piece turned out as good as it could get! Some sanding, or even scraping is all I need to do. Or I can feed it through the drum sander. Yup, that sounds like the right level of effort.
So. This went well but it took a long time. About 35 minutes and I won't need to do any push ups tomorrow. And my excuses for not finishing Brain's resonator are almost spent. Darn.
Saturday, September 8, 2012
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
In the second pic the back is under pressure. (It's a lot easier to glue a one piece back without a pesky centerline to keep from sliding away.)
Upplagd av Sven Nyström kl. 6:59 PM
Monday, September 3, 2012
Then I tried to align the coverplate to get the screw holes right, but that was impossible. So I made a perspex template from the coverplate with a circle of the exact size and all the holes. With this lying on top of the body I can make all the holes at the right distance from the well.
Margins are a bit small. I'm considering a way to strengthen the holes. Since you have to remove the whole plate to get to the biscuit and bridge, these screws will go in and out a bit.