I took down the sides to match the desired curves and clamped the uke down on the solera. I want the geometry to be correct for ghe next steps, before the stability of the shell is completed. Then I glued in the kerfed lining strips. In the pic you can see how I check the glue squeeze out with a mirror.
After planing down the kerfed lining to the sides I made notches for the back braces and installed them, of cöurse using my Japanese brass clamps.
Then I turned to the resos. I planed the heel down with my Veritas apron plane, a very versatile tool.
To get the backs properly in place I glue individual tentalones around the body to stop it from sliding around. This is less important if I have a one piece back, but good practice when I have a book matched back with a seam in the middle.
I cut the backs out, roughly. It’s much easier to clamp it all together if the overhang is less.
And again using the two of them to clamp each other, with a layer of foam in between. That gives me pressure across the whole surface, and I can see the right amount of squeeze out in the sound well.
After planing down the kerfed lining to the sides I made notches for the back braces and installed them, of cöurse using my Japanese brass clamps.
Then I turned to the resos. I planed the heel down with my Veritas apron plane, a very versatile tool.
To get the backs properly in place I glue individual tentalones around the body to stop it from sliding around. This is less important if I have a one piece back, but good practice when I have a book matched back with a seam in the middle.
I cut the backs out, roughly. It’s much easier to clamp it all together if the overhang is less.
And again using the two of them to clamp each other, with a layer of foam in between. That gives me pressure across the whole surface, and I can see the right amount of squeeze out in the sound well.
Next up is fretboards for the resos, and the back goes onto the sop.
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